Tessellations: A Brief Theory of Warping Paper
Tessellations are the new trend in the origami world. Definitions, which, by definition, try to draw definite border lines, can only do injustice to this field.Screenly ose update
There are Corrugations, Molecules, Curved Tessellations, and so many other subcategories. Here is my humble addition to this field. First, let's define the types of tessellations. I am not familiar with any formal definition, even Wikipedia leaves this term unexplored.
The Classic is, well, classic. Since Fujimoto, a Japanese origami master who published books that included origami tessellations in the s till nowadays, this is the most common type. It's based on two major grid types - the Hexagon and the Square. It is made of Molecules that can be spread in all four or six directions, covering a continuous surface. By nature, the surface of the final model will have an odd number of layers one, three, five, or even more throughout. This is because whenever the paper is first folded this way, it must be folded the other way, too, to allow continuity.
This change of number of layers gives the most amazing effect when you backlight your model. One layer is a bit transparent while three layers and more are dark. For that reason one tessellation can give you four models: first side, the other side, and both sides backlit. Borrowed from the English dictionary, a corrugation is: a wrinkle; fold; furrow; ridge. This type of tessellation has no triple or more layers. The entire original surface of the paper is visible to the eye, and the pattern is usually in the form of waves.
There is no point in using backlighting on this type. Recursive tessellations are unique.Crease patterns are a quick an easy way to record how to fold an origami model.
A crease pattern is basically just an origami model that has been unfolded and shows all the creases on the original flat piece of paper. I personally still have trouble doing it, even with simple models.
Crease Patterns marked with a heart are some of my favourites. The difficulty is purely based on how complicated I think the crease pattern looks. Please note that none of these crease patterns are hosted on this site.
Wherever possible I tried to link to an actual HTML page on the site but in some cases this was not possible.Lamberts food
Click on a category title below to expand that category and see a list of all the crease patterns. The crease patterns are sorted alphabetically based on name. Anime and Cartoon Characters. Birds and Bats. Boxes and Containers. Dinosaurs and Prehistoric Creatures. Fish and Sea Creatures. Holidays Christmas, Halloween, etc. Insects and Spiders. Mythological Creatures. Plants and Trees. Science Fiction. Shapes and Modular Including Kusudamas.
Video Games. Instructions for the best origami models can only be found in books. If you're looking for more awesome things to fold check out our list of favourite books. We've written reviews and made lists of the models you'll find in each one. No matter what you're looking for you'll definitely find some cool things to fold. Origami Crease Patterns. Ready to become a master folder? Check out our highly-rated book, Everyone Can Learn Origami!
Neelesh K. Lang Origami. Rose Kade Chan KadeChan. Looking for More Awesome Things to Fold? Pin It on Pinterest. Origami Plans. Passion Origami. Zing-Man Origami. Robert J.We touched on more work during our course but these needed the most instruction, so they were diagrammed. I want them to experience the process and think about it so they may find new ways of doing it in their own style. They are …. Additionally, if you want to take this model up a notch in style and complexity, divide the paper into 16ths instead of 8ths, and it will make a more pleasing curved fan and a skinnier handle as well.
For more advanced folders only! I hope you enjoy this model as much as I do. Our house is filled with these creations and I feel like my tessellation work is now outnumbered! It should be rather easy to fold even if you have no paperfolding experience. Just take your time and follow the diagrams carefully.
Being somewhat of a specialist on the subject, I posted these thoughts: Hi,well, nobody necessarily likes pre-creasing grids, including me. As others have mentioned to you, if things are getting too small, you need to use larger paper.
Also, and perhaps equally as relevant, you should be using better paper… higher quality paper will yield much better results from the same folding process, and is much more likely to give you a better looking result while also giving you less headache ….
I first started folding this pattern years ago, creating a 6 meter long strip of folded paper for it. Sadly it was from Tyvek, which turned out to be too soft to fold properly, and the entire thing was a loss. Ever since then I have wanted to fold it correctly, and realize it in full form. This work will be on display at the Salon Resonance[s], a large art exhibition in Strasbourg, France on November of this year. It will be at least 10 meters long for the exhibition space, potentially longer.
I just hope my hands will hold out! Previous Posts.This unit was originally designed as an attempt to reproduce business card cubes with origami made from regular square paper. I quickly found out that the extra paper a square sheet makes available can be used to make decorated faces instead of the plain squares that can be produced with the business card unit.
This way a single unit became a whole family of related units which can be combined together in many different ways. Some patterns are just abstract decorations while others can be used to simulate architectural elements such as roofs, windows and doors.
First is their sheer number: more than one hundred at the moment of first publication on my website. Some models of buildings may even call for one-off units which will be needed only for a single model. With so many different pieces, and several different ways of connecting them, these units are very versatile. The possibility of finding more and more units to add to the family makes this module similar to the Sonobe Unitknown for its countless variations invented by different people.Lucifer 5 movie 300mb
Another peculiarity is my use of crease patterns CP instead of step-by-step instructions. Their use was a necessity: with over shapes and counting, I was unable to prepare step-by-step instructions for all of them in reasonable time. When I started preparing models with different units, I discovered to my surprise that crease patterns were actually very convenient to use and took much less time to read than multi-step instructions.
Of course, I had just designed these modules so I only crease patterns as a reminder. I would be happy to hear from you if other folders find them convenient as well. CPs also allowed me to focus more on what the end result should be instead of the folding sequence, which led me to changing the way I folded each unit: I became able to avoid creating helper creases which often appear as a side effect of early folding steps but are visible in the finished work later on.
This cleaner look would not have been possible if I had concentrated on the steps needed to fold a unit instead of on the shape I was intending to create. By viewing some of the models up close you can tell if they were folded before or after I learned that the same unit could be folded in different ways, with or without helper creases.
Direct inspiration for this family of units actually, the first two tiles, A1 and A2was the business card cube unit. I also have to mention Jackon Cube which uses a different connection method than BBU but again the unit is pretty much the same as the A2 tile. I expect more designs to be published over time.
Of course you are free and encouraged to use it for folding your models and to use it as an inspiration when inventing your own modules. This medium is often used for complex origami models made from a single sheet of paper but I have not seen them used for modular origami so far. Crease patters take some time getting used to but they make it possible to explain advanced folds in little space and after a while they become quite convenient to read.
You can find lots of useful information about crease patterns on the web, in particular on the pages below: Robert J. Crease patterns which you can find below were made by folding the units and then tracing the significant folds with a pen. Helper lines can often be seen as untraced creases. Some diagrams contain extra tips for constructing non-obvious creases. There are lots of different Building Block Units.
Most models consist of an inner core which gives them bulk and external tiles which are used to decorate the model. In order to introduce some order to the dozens of different tiles, I assigned each tile an unambigous identification code there are too many to use descriptive names conveniently.Ews vs owa
The division of tiles into families is there in order to make finding tiles needed for a particular kind of model easier. However, the division is only rough and based on the external look of the tiles. As a result, tiles whose folding sequence differs by just a single crease may end up in different families. Since there are so many different tiles, some of them differ only a little.
Actually, they form a continuum where each tile can be modified slightly and then some and it is hard to put a sharp boundary to where variations of one tile type end and a new design begins. For example in tile E1 crossthe cross can be made broader or narrower by making creases at different points along the side of the paper. Some modules are chiral not the same as their mirror image and I consider both the left and right version to be variants of the same unit.
When a crease or two are added to a model without changing its appearance much, I consider this a modification. An example would be folding a unit along its diagonal for assembly such as in the spiked icosahedron model or bending A4 connector modules as needed for a particular model.This article is part of the Origami Tips series from the old Origami Tips website.
It was originally published on April Other than formatting, it appears as the original, which can downloaded here. Very little written information exists on the subject of folding origami models from their crease-patterns.
Due to the fact that this is a very interesting subject, I had reached the conclusion that something had to be done about it. And so I waited, and waited, and yet the situation did not improve. Seeing that none of the masters were writing anything on the subject, I decided to write what I myself learned from my very modest experiences in this field.
It is important for me to note that this is not a tutorial written by an origami master, but by an average origami enthusiast who is struggling to learn how to fold from CP, and is just sharing his experiences. Mistakes and bad advice may very well lurk inside this document.
If anyone has better ideas I would be strongly welcome receiving them for future version of this document. Please note that this document includes various thought I have on this subject which do not directly aid in explaining how to fold CP. I do, however, find them interesting, so I included them in the document. I once heard a story about how someone was introduced to origami. His friend presented him with a square sheet of origami paper, and asked him what he saw.
That person, slightly puzzled, answered that he saw a piece of paper. His friend then told him that he was wrong, and that it was in fact a duck! He then folded the paper, and indeed, there it was - a duck! One of the things I like most about origami is that it shows that in a simple, square piece of paper, much like the Torah, all of creation already exists.
In this sense both the simple crane and the super-complex insect are, in essence, a square, and therefore the same. In origami, we do not create something new, we simply manipulate an existing shape into a different one, and yet remains the same thing.
We can always return it to its origin. It is always its origin. And like most great theories, this ideal concept is also hampered by a little thing called reality.Origami Resource Center. See More Copyrightorigami-resource-center. Crease patterns CP can be a mystery! This page will answer some of the common questions regarding CP.
What are CP? CP are the lines on a piece of paper when you unfold an origami model. There are many creases in an origami model but not all are shown in a CP diagram. Only the critical folds that form the main part of the model called the 'base' is shown.
Some diagrammers will use red and blue lines to differentiate between valley and mountain folds. If a CP is particularly complex, shaded circles are used to show the major body parts. Why do people use CP when conventional diagrams are so much easier to understand?
A single image will show all the important folds in the model. In contrast, conventional origami diagrams are time-consuming and tedious to generate. If you want to fold an origami model and there are no conventional diagrams for it, then you must use the information in the CP to determine how the model is folded. You use the CP because you have no other choice.
CP are fun to study. You can look at them and determine which creases are responsible for the different parts of the model. A crease pattern with two distinct regions may represent the head and the body of the model. Multiple short creases all radiating from a single point may be claws, toes, or tentacles.
Analyzing CP can allow you to modify an existing model or design new models.Sexsi mame svrsavanje po picki
Origami designers use CP to help create new origami models. Using paper and pencil, technical origami designers map out entire origami models via their CP. Eric Joisel uses CP to create origami models.
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Since some origami models are not diagrammed, people will fold models using the information in the CP. Anyone can fold from a CP but the diagrams are challenging to decipher and can be approached as if they are puzzles. The process involves folding the necessary creases and then collapsing the paper into the final model. It helps if the creator has used different line-patterns to differentiate between valley and mountain folds.
Shaded regions designating the different body parts are helpful too. Folding from a CP is not simple and will require a number of tries before success. Don't be tempted to fold a complex model from its CP because a conventional diagram is not available. Start with easy models before progressing to the complex models. In attempt to de-mystify CP, some origami enthusiasts offerWelcome to the Gemology Online Faceting Diagram database!
All patterns on this page were written by faceters on this site. To access the diagrams, simply click on the image of the stone. To view the image up-close, click on the small "picture-in-picture" icon in the lower-right corner. If a computer rendering and an actual stone are displayed, clicking on the rendering will take you to the diagram, while clicking on the actual stone will take you to a page of test-cuts.
To help you post designs, there is the Help Page for Design Posting.
Origami — folding instructions
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